Poker Stats To Memorize
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*Calculating Poker Odds for Dummies - A FREE, #1 guide to mastering odds. How to quickly count outs to judge the value & chance of winning a hand in 2020.
*Poker hobbyist Shaun Densmore turned a $7.50 buy-in into $94,901 after studying in the Lab. What will you win? Learn what propelled Shaun to his big win and take your poker skills to the next level when you join the Upswing Lab. Learn Expert Strategies Today & Start Crushing Tomorrow!
Are you good at math? Hmm, thought so. Neither am I.
OK, Just Memorize These Common Poker Odds. March 20, 2012 4 min read. Are you good at math? Hmm, thought so. For many poker players, doing math calculations is the.
For many poker players, doing math calculations is the last thing on their mind when they sit down at the felt. They’re there to play and have fun!
Still, poker is more fun when you win, and it helps to know the winning potential of starting cards. Remember, there’s a reason for the saying, ’Never draw to an inside straight.’
Because figuring percentages in your head would slow down the game, should you bring a pocket calculator to the table? No way!
Fortunately, some situations repeat quite often in Texas hold ’em, and it’s easy to memorize the math involved. Once that’s done, you can concentrate on everything else going on at the table.
Today, let’s re-examine the math of some common hold ’em situations originally listed in a 2006 LuckyDog Poker column:
— Being dealt any pocket pair in the hole — 6 percent (one in 17) chance. Getting A-A, K-K, Q-Q, or J-J as your starting hole cards — 1.8 percent (one in 56).
— Improving any pocket pair to trips on the flop — 12 percent (one in eight). If you don’t make trips on the flop, there’s a 9 percent (one in 11) chance of doing so on the turn and river cards.
— A no-pair starting hand improving to a pair on the flop (either card) — 32 percent (one in three).
— Completing an open-ended straight after the flop — 34 percent (one in three). For instance, you hold 10-9, the flop is J-8-2, and the last two cards are 4-7.
— Being dealt suited hole cards (two spades of any rank, for example) — 24 percent (one in four). Being dealt suited connectors such as Q-J of hearts — 4 percent (one in 25).
— Hitting two cards of your suit on the flop — 11 percent (one in nine). Completing a flush after two cards of your suit come on the flop — 39 percent (one in 2.6).
— Being dealt A-K to start — 1.2 percent (one in 83). With A-K in the pocket, hitting an ace or king by the river — 50 percent (one in two).
These numbers identify your chances of receiving certain starting cards and hitting specific hands, but that’s not the whole story. Knowing these percentages allows you to calculate ’pot odds,’ which gives you a mathematical reason for staying or folding.
For example, let’s say after the flop you have an open-ended straight draw with a 34 percent (one in three) chance of making the straight by the end of the hand — 17 percent (one in six) chance of hitting on the turn card, plus 17 percent again to hit on the river.
In this case, as long as there is five times as much in the pot as the amount you must put in on a single bet, you’re getting sufficient pot odds to stay in. In low-stakes limit games, calling usually is automatic. In no-limit, however, an opponent’s big bet often negates your odds and you should fold.
Now, about those inside straight draws: Is it true you should ’never draw to an inside straight?’ Actually, no!
Sure, most of the time you should fold because the chances of hitting your straight on the next card are slim (11 to one against). But on rare occasions, you’ll have the proper pot odds to make the draw. Do the math!
E-mail your poker questions and comments to [email protected] for use in future columns. To find out more about Russ Scott and read previous LuckyDog Poker columns, visit creators.com or luckydogpoker.com.Learning To Read and Interpret Poker Tracking Software Stats
Poker tracking software such as Poker Tracker or Holdem Manager are programs that extract and compile data from hand histories where all actions by you and your opponent’s are recorded, resulting in detailed statistical analysis which can give a clearer picture of how someone is playing and how to play against them. It’s also a great aid for improving your own game. It is practically a necessity for online play these days and when used effectively, it will greatly improve your win rate. The long lists of statistics they provide you with may seem daunting or overwhelming at first, just focus on a small number of key statistics and add a new one each time you reach a level of confidence in interpreting each statistic on your HUD. It’s important not to over load your HUD with a wide range of stats that you don’t comprehend, take things one stat at a time. If you’re having difficulty setting up your HUD configuration, most poker training sites host video guides for this. Using Tracker Software to improve your game
At the end of every session or day it’s a good idea to go back through your biggest winners or losers or any other interesting hands and review them. You should learn to recognise if you made any mistakes and try not to repeat them in future. If there are any hands that confused you or you’d like more opinions on, you should consider converting them and posting them on a poker forum for advice. It’s always good to hear a variety of opinions on hands you’re unsure of. For ease of writing, I’ll refer to a continuation bet as ’cbet’. Using Tracking Software to track your opponents play
When reading blogs and forums etc. you’ll often see players, or villains, described as things like 22/18/2, but what does it mean? The first number is VPIP, the second is PFR and the third is AF. Voluntarily Put $ In Pot % or VPIP
This shows how tight, or loose someone is playing pre-flop, it is the best tool for estimating a player’s range of hands. You want your opponent’s VPIP number to be as big as possible at low stakes, the more hands they play the worse they usually are. You need a sample size of at least 100 hands to be confident assigning ranges based on this statistic.
<15% is very tight. These players are only playing super premium hands from early position and only still maintain a conservative range when in position.
15% - 22% is tight. They will usually be a bit looser from early position then the <15% players, make notes on whether they play pocket pairs from early position, or whether they raise or limp. They will tend to have a much wider range in late position.
22% - 30% is semi loose. They’ll usually open all PPs and strong non pair hands, like suited broadways and strong aces, from early position. They will have a wide range from late position.
30% - 40% is considerably loose. These players are usually playing far too many hands in all positions and should make for easy winnings.
40% - 60% is maniac loose. They’re playing all sorts of trash from every possible position, these are the type of players you really want at your table, though they are becoming much rarer these days.
>60% is free money. Pre-flop Raise % or PFR
This is the percentage of hands your opponent is raising pre-flop. It must always be less or equal their VPIP and should be analyzed in context with their VPIP. A 60/18 is not that aggressive, while a 20/18 is an extremely aggressive player. Again you need a minimum sample size of at least 50 hands to have any confidence in this stat.
If their PFR is very small (<5%) then you don’t need to worry about getting raised off marginal hands. If they do raise you can fold nearly all speculative hands unless you have the implied odds to call and stack them with a pocket pair for example, the deeper you’re playing the wider the range of hands you can call with.
If their PFR is <1/2 their VPIP, then this player is quite passive pre-flop and limping over 50% of hands they play.
If PFR is between 50% - 75% of VPIP then they’re raising more than they’re limping, but they’re not overly aggressive.
Any player with a ratio >75% is raising the majority of their hands and they’re playing aggressively pre-flop. Aggression Factor or AF
This is an indicator of post-flop aggression. It is calculated by the following formula (raise% + bet%)/(call%) post-flop. It’s the ratio of times a player is aggressive against the times they’re passive. You need at least 100 – 200 sample size of hands to be sure of this stat but more hands for tighter players.
It’s essential to look at this in the context of VPIP and other statistics to interpret what it means. One of the limitations of Aggression Factor is that it doesn’t include fold %, so two players with the same AF could have very different ranges they raise.
A weak-tight nit with a VPIP of 12% is going to make much stronger hands on average and fold his marginal hands more often then a maniac with a VPIP of 65% who bets and raises with random hands.
The weak-tight nit will have a high AF because he often folds unless he has the nuts so a raise from him will often mean a strong hand. The maniac on the other hand might have the same AF but since he’s playing more hands pre-flop and folding fewer hands post-flop his range for raising will be far larger.
It’s important to be able to tell what type of player you’re playing against. Take note of the type of hands they go to show down with, a maniac will lose a lot of hands at showdown while the nit will go to showdown infrequently and often with nothing but very strong holdings. Using AF with WtSD, W$SD and W$WSF (explained soon) will give you a better idea what type of player you’re up against. Looking at how they react to cbets can also be a useful indicator. Rough Guidelines For Aggression Factor or AF
<1.5 is passive, these players are calling a lot and betting/raising very little, a raise from these players usually means a strong hand. You can value bet lighter against these opponents because they tend to call with wide ranges.
1.5 – 2.5 is about average. These players aren’t overly aggressive post-flop but it’s important to look at it in the context of their VPIP and other stats.
2.5 – 3.5 is aggressive. Be prepared to assign a wider range to bets and raises.
>3.5 is very aggressive. These players prefer to bet or raise rather then call and may do so lightly. Against these players it may be profitable to induce bluffs. As mentioned, in some cases a high AF can be an indication of a high fold%, so don’t just assume they’re raising you light. Won $ When Saw Flop % (W$WSF)
Is how often a player wins the pot when he sees a flop; this gives a good indication of how aggressive a player is post-flop.
>45% – this player is likely to be extremely aggressive post-flop and is probably firing multiple barrels. It’s also likely this player goes too far with marginal holdings, usually indicates a maniac.
40% – 45% – this player is playing aggressively, most commonly a good TAG/LAG
35% - 40% - this player is slightly passive post-flop, he gives up easily and may be playing too many hands pre-flop. Usually indicates a weak-tight post-flop player.
<35% - this player is giving up far too easily and may be playing too many hands pre-flop. Usually means that the player is nitty.
Went to Showdown % (WtSD) – How often a player gets to showdown when he sees a flop. The higher this number is the more likely the player is to be a calling station and the lighter you can value bet. The lower the number the more you can bluff and the less inclined you should be to value bet. This should be looked at with W$SD.
<22%, this player is fairly nitty and doesn’t get to showdown often, most likely has a high W$SD
22% – 27%, indicates a reasonably tight range and is the most common, should be looked at in terms of W$SD.
27% - 33%, fairly loose range for getting to showdown, a low W$SD would indicate a calling station while a high W$SD would usually indicate a competent LAG.
>33%, this player is almost definitely going too far with his hands. Value bet relentlessly. Won $ at Showdown % (W$SD)
Represents how often a player wins $ at showdown. This can give a approximate measure of a player’s post-flop skill, the higher the number the more likely an opponent is to have the winning hand at showdown.
This really needs to be looked at in context with a player’s WtSD and they’re overall style of play. A maniac is likely to have a low W$SD while a smart, aggressive player’s will be higher. A good LAG will have a high W$SD where a bad LAG wouldn’t. This will also separate the nits from the TAGs. You can bluff frequently and use smaller bet sizes against players with high W$SD as they’re likely to be weak tight. On the other hand a player with a low W$SD is likely calling too much so we can value bet lighter and bet bigger against them.
>55%, this player probably isn’t going to showdown too often and can be bluffed more frequently.
48% - 55%, fairly common for TAGs/LAGs, look at in terms of WtSD.
<48%, usually has the worst hand at showdown, value bet relentlessly and don’t bluff them.
BB/100 – Lets you know if the player is winning over the sample. A good stat to have up on your own play if you generally multi-table, it will tell you what your table image is like for each table. If you’re down a good bit on the table then your image will be bad and you will get called and played back at lighter. If you’re up a good bit, haven’t shown down much (or only strong hands) your image is likely to be good and you’ll have more steal and fold equity at that table.
Total Hands Played (Hands) – One of the most critical stats you can have on your HUD. This tells you how much weight you can attribute to their stats. VPIP and PFR only become meaningful after roughly 50 hands, AF after about 200-500 hands depending on how loose the player is. W$SD and W$WSF will need several thousand hands to be truly accurate so should be used carefully, WtSD will become accurate a lot faster though. Aggression Factor by Street (FlopAF/TurnAF/RiverAF)
These three stats displayed can give you a good idea of what type of player you’re up against.
A player with high flop AF will be cbetting frequently, use this with Cbet% to determine how likely a player is to cbet.
A player with low flop AF and unusually high turn AF (>2) is most likely a floater. They tend to have a fairly high Call PFR % as well as a high Call Cbet %.
A player with high flop and turn AFs will often be firing a double barrel, if they have a high W$WSF and Cbet% with a fairly low WtSD you can be fairly confident they will fire 2nd barrels.
A player with low flop and turn AF and high river AF is usually a fish; they like to see all the cards before betting and are often calling stations as well.
A player with normal flop and turn AFs but with a low river AF (<2) is often turning their hand into a bluff catcher on the river, they prefer to check/call then bet/fold. Conversely a player with a high river AF will be bet/folding more of their marginal hands and you can raise their bets as a bluff more often. Attempt to Steal Blinds % (AttSB)
Another exceptionally useful stat, it can determine whether or not a player is aware position dynamics. It needs to be considered in context with PFR. If their AttSB is significantly higher then their PFR then they’re most likely aware of the power of positional and you can give more respect to their UTG opens and less to their cut off/button opens. A high Fold SB/BB to steal % is another solid sign that they know what they’re doing.
A player with a high AttSB who is opening from the cutoff and particularly the button is an excellent candidate to consider 3beting light. If they also have a high Cbet% then you could consider calling light with the intention of c/ring (or just raising if your on the button) their cbet. Pocket pairs go down in value against these types of players since you can’t expect to get paid off often enough even if you hit gin.
<20% - These players aren’t taking advantage of their position and are giving up a lot of value. We would like this type of player in LP when we’re in the blinds.
20% – 27% - these players aren’t stealing too light and we can give their cutoff/button opens a tighter range. We’re not losing much against this type of player.
27% – 35% - these players are stealing fairly lightly, we should assign a wider range to their late position raises and 3bet them more often as they’re likely to be getting out of line.
>35% – these players are stealing pretty light and are often raising many of trashy hands. We can 3bet more hands for value and we should be 3betting them frequently as their opening range can’t take too much pressure. Continuation Bet Percentage
Tells us how often a player bets or raises the flop after raising the pot pre-flop. At micro levels players should be cbetting pretty often, however at small-mid stakes this would be burning money. Pay attention to PFR and AttSB, a player with a very low PFR most likely has a big hand when he cbets and should be given credit. A player with a high PFR and high Cbet% will have a much wider range when they cbet.
>85%, this player is continuation betting almost always and is unlikely to be paying attention to the number of opponents or the flop texture. You can raise and call them lighter. These are also prime candidates for floating unless of course they are prone to firing multiple barrels. If they do fire 2nd barrels often then you can be more inclined to slowplay monsters, or call down lightly against them trying to induce bluffs.
65% - 85%, this player is probably playing closer to optimally at small-mid stakes and is going to be much harder to exploit.
<65%, this player doesn’t cbet often enough. We can see more flops with them and take the pot away when they check. However, they should be given more credit when they do cbet, as with a low frequency, once they start betting, it’s generally because they’ve connected reasonably well with the flop. Bet River %
How frequently a player bets the river. It’s important to be aware of what type of villain you are facing. A lot of weaker players like to check call cbets and then bet the river after the turn checks through. They often assume you would have bet a made hand on the turn and believe they can win the pot by betting. Maniacs are probably bluffing the river too frequently.
>30%, this player is likely betting a lot of weak or marginal hands on the river. Adjust your range and be prepared to call these players down lighter.
20% - 30%, this player is betting the river quite frequently, they may bet-fold more often then check-call.
<20%, this player should be given a lot more respect on the river. Fold SB/BB to steal %
This statistic
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*Poker Stats To Memorize Cheat
*Poker Stats To Memorize People
*Poker Stats To Memorize Presidents
*Poker Stats To Memorize Words
*Calculating Poker Odds for Dummies - A FREE, #1 guide to mastering odds. How to quickly count outs to judge the value & chance of winning a hand in 2020.
*Poker hobbyist Shaun Densmore turned a $7.50 buy-in into $94,901 after studying in the Lab. What will you win? Learn what propelled Shaun to his big win and take your poker skills to the next level when you join the Upswing Lab. Learn Expert Strategies Today & Start Crushing Tomorrow!
Are you good at math? Hmm, thought so. Neither am I.
OK, Just Memorize These Common Poker Odds. March 20, 2012 4 min read. Are you good at math? Hmm, thought so. For many poker players, doing math calculations is the.
For many poker players, doing math calculations is the last thing on their mind when they sit down at the felt. They’re there to play and have fun!
Still, poker is more fun when you win, and it helps to know the winning potential of starting cards. Remember, there’s a reason for the saying, ’Never draw to an inside straight.’
Because figuring percentages in your head would slow down the game, should you bring a pocket calculator to the table? No way!
Fortunately, some situations repeat quite often in Texas hold ’em, and it’s easy to memorize the math involved. Once that’s done, you can concentrate on everything else going on at the table.
Today, let’s re-examine the math of some common hold ’em situations originally listed in a 2006 LuckyDog Poker column:
— Being dealt any pocket pair in the hole — 6 percent (one in 17) chance. Getting A-A, K-K, Q-Q, or J-J as your starting hole cards — 1.8 percent (one in 56).
— Improving any pocket pair to trips on the flop — 12 percent (one in eight). If you don’t make trips on the flop, there’s a 9 percent (one in 11) chance of doing so on the turn and river cards.
— A no-pair starting hand improving to a pair on the flop (either card) — 32 percent (one in three).
— Completing an open-ended straight after the flop — 34 percent (one in three). For instance, you hold 10-9, the flop is J-8-2, and the last two cards are 4-7.
— Being dealt suited hole cards (two spades of any rank, for example) — 24 percent (one in four). Being dealt suited connectors such as Q-J of hearts — 4 percent (one in 25).
— Hitting two cards of your suit on the flop — 11 percent (one in nine). Completing a flush after two cards of your suit come on the flop — 39 percent (one in 2.6).
— Being dealt A-K to start — 1.2 percent (one in 83). With A-K in the pocket, hitting an ace or king by the river — 50 percent (one in two).
These numbers identify your chances of receiving certain starting cards and hitting specific hands, but that’s not the whole story. Knowing these percentages allows you to calculate ’pot odds,’ which gives you a mathematical reason for staying or folding.
For example, let’s say after the flop you have an open-ended straight draw with a 34 percent (one in three) chance of making the straight by the end of the hand — 17 percent (one in six) chance of hitting on the turn card, plus 17 percent again to hit on the river.
In this case, as long as there is five times as much in the pot as the amount you must put in on a single bet, you’re getting sufficient pot odds to stay in. In low-stakes limit games, calling usually is automatic. In no-limit, however, an opponent’s big bet often negates your odds and you should fold.
Now, about those inside straight draws: Is it true you should ’never draw to an inside straight?’ Actually, no!
Sure, most of the time you should fold because the chances of hitting your straight on the next card are slim (11 to one against). But on rare occasions, you’ll have the proper pot odds to make the draw. Do the math!
E-mail your poker questions and comments to [email protected] for use in future columns. To find out more about Russ Scott and read previous LuckyDog Poker columns, visit creators.com or luckydogpoker.com.Learning To Read and Interpret Poker Tracking Software Stats
Poker tracking software such as Poker Tracker or Holdem Manager are programs that extract and compile data from hand histories where all actions by you and your opponent’s are recorded, resulting in detailed statistical analysis which can give a clearer picture of how someone is playing and how to play against them. It’s also a great aid for improving your own game. It is practically a necessity for online play these days and when used effectively, it will greatly improve your win rate. The long lists of statistics they provide you with may seem daunting or overwhelming at first, just focus on a small number of key statistics and add a new one each time you reach a level of confidence in interpreting each statistic on your HUD. It’s important not to over load your HUD with a wide range of stats that you don’t comprehend, take things one stat at a time. If you’re having difficulty setting up your HUD configuration, most poker training sites host video guides for this. Using Tracker Software to improve your game
At the end of every session or day it’s a good idea to go back through your biggest winners or losers or any other interesting hands and review them. You should learn to recognise if you made any mistakes and try not to repeat them in future. If there are any hands that confused you or you’d like more opinions on, you should consider converting them and posting them on a poker forum for advice. It’s always good to hear a variety of opinions on hands you’re unsure of. For ease of writing, I’ll refer to a continuation bet as ’cbet’. Using Tracking Software to track your opponents play
When reading blogs and forums etc. you’ll often see players, or villains, described as things like 22/18/2, but what does it mean? The first number is VPIP, the second is PFR and the third is AF. Voluntarily Put $ In Pot % or VPIP
This shows how tight, or loose someone is playing pre-flop, it is the best tool for estimating a player’s range of hands. You want your opponent’s VPIP number to be as big as possible at low stakes, the more hands they play the worse they usually are. You need a sample size of at least 100 hands to be confident assigning ranges based on this statistic.
<15% is very tight. These players are only playing super premium hands from early position and only still maintain a conservative range when in position.
15% - 22% is tight. They will usually be a bit looser from early position then the <15% players, make notes on whether they play pocket pairs from early position, or whether they raise or limp. They will tend to have a much wider range in late position.
22% - 30% is semi loose. They’ll usually open all PPs and strong non pair hands, like suited broadways and strong aces, from early position. They will have a wide range from late position.
30% - 40% is considerably loose. These players are usually playing far too many hands in all positions and should make for easy winnings.
40% - 60% is maniac loose. They’re playing all sorts of trash from every possible position, these are the type of players you really want at your table, though they are becoming much rarer these days.
>60% is free money. Pre-flop Raise % or PFR
This is the percentage of hands your opponent is raising pre-flop. It must always be less or equal their VPIP and should be analyzed in context with their VPIP. A 60/18 is not that aggressive, while a 20/18 is an extremely aggressive player. Again you need a minimum sample size of at least 50 hands to have any confidence in this stat.
If their PFR is very small (<5%) then you don’t need to worry about getting raised off marginal hands. If they do raise you can fold nearly all speculative hands unless you have the implied odds to call and stack them with a pocket pair for example, the deeper you’re playing the wider the range of hands you can call with.
If their PFR is <1/2 their VPIP, then this player is quite passive pre-flop and limping over 50% of hands they play.
If PFR is between 50% - 75% of VPIP then they’re raising more than they’re limping, but they’re not overly aggressive.
Any player with a ratio >75% is raising the majority of their hands and they’re playing aggressively pre-flop. Aggression Factor or AF
This is an indicator of post-flop aggression. It is calculated by the following formula (raise% + bet%)/(call%) post-flop. It’s the ratio of times a player is aggressive against the times they’re passive. You need at least 100 – 200 sample size of hands to be sure of this stat but more hands for tighter players.
It’s essential to look at this in the context of VPIP and other statistics to interpret what it means. One of the limitations of Aggression Factor is that it doesn’t include fold %, so two players with the same AF could have very different ranges they raise.
A weak-tight nit with a VPIP of 12% is going to make much stronger hands on average and fold his marginal hands more often then a maniac with a VPIP of 65% who bets and raises with random hands.
The weak-tight nit will have a high AF because he often folds unless he has the nuts so a raise from him will often mean a strong hand. The maniac on the other hand might have the same AF but since he’s playing more hands pre-flop and folding fewer hands post-flop his range for raising will be far larger.
It’s important to be able to tell what type of player you’re playing against. Take note of the type of hands they go to show down with, a maniac will lose a lot of hands at showdown while the nit will go to showdown infrequently and often with nothing but very strong holdings. Using AF with WtSD, W$SD and W$WSF (explained soon) will give you a better idea what type of player you’re up against. Looking at how they react to cbets can also be a useful indicator. Rough Guidelines For Aggression Factor or AF
<1.5 is passive, these players are calling a lot and betting/raising very little, a raise from these players usually means a strong hand. You can value bet lighter against these opponents because they tend to call with wide ranges.
1.5 – 2.5 is about average. These players aren’t overly aggressive post-flop but it’s important to look at it in the context of their VPIP and other stats.
2.5 – 3.5 is aggressive. Be prepared to assign a wider range to bets and raises.
>3.5 is very aggressive. These players prefer to bet or raise rather then call and may do so lightly. Against these players it may be profitable to induce bluffs. As mentioned, in some cases a high AF can be an indication of a high fold%, so don’t just assume they’re raising you light. Won $ When Saw Flop % (W$WSF)
Is how often a player wins the pot when he sees a flop; this gives a good indication of how aggressive a player is post-flop.
>45% – this player is likely to be extremely aggressive post-flop and is probably firing multiple barrels. It’s also likely this player goes too far with marginal holdings, usually indicates a maniac.
40% – 45% – this player is playing aggressively, most commonly a good TAG/LAG
35% - 40% - this player is slightly passive post-flop, he gives up easily and may be playing too many hands pre-flop. Usually indicates a weak-tight post-flop player.
<35% - this player is giving up far too easily and may be playing too many hands pre-flop. Usually means that the player is nitty.
Went to Showdown % (WtSD) – How often a player gets to showdown when he sees a flop. The higher this number is the more likely the player is to be a calling station and the lighter you can value bet. The lower the number the more you can bluff and the less inclined you should be to value bet. This should be looked at with W$SD.
<22%, this player is fairly nitty and doesn’t get to showdown often, most likely has a high W$SD
22% – 27%, indicates a reasonably tight range and is the most common, should be looked at in terms of W$SD.
27% - 33%, fairly loose range for getting to showdown, a low W$SD would indicate a calling station while a high W$SD would usually indicate a competent LAG.
>33%, this player is almost definitely going too far with his hands. Value bet relentlessly. Won $ at Showdown % (W$SD)
Represents how often a player wins $ at showdown. This can give a approximate measure of a player’s post-flop skill, the higher the number the more likely an opponent is to have the winning hand at showdown.
This really needs to be looked at in context with a player’s WtSD and they’re overall style of play. A maniac is likely to have a low W$SD while a smart, aggressive player’s will be higher. A good LAG will have a high W$SD where a bad LAG wouldn’t. This will also separate the nits from the TAGs. You can bluff frequently and use smaller bet sizes against players with high W$SD as they’re likely to be weak tight. On the other hand a player with a low W$SD is likely calling too much so we can value bet lighter and bet bigger against them.
>55%, this player probably isn’t going to showdown too often and can be bluffed more frequently.
48% - 55%, fairly common for TAGs/LAGs, look at in terms of WtSD.
<48%, usually has the worst hand at showdown, value bet relentlessly and don’t bluff them.
BB/100 – Lets you know if the player is winning over the sample. A good stat to have up on your own play if you generally multi-table, it will tell you what your table image is like for each table. If you’re down a good bit on the table then your image will be bad and you will get called and played back at lighter. If you’re up a good bit, haven’t shown down much (or only strong hands) your image is likely to be good and you’ll have more steal and fold equity at that table.
Total Hands Played (Hands) – One of the most critical stats you can have on your HUD. This tells you how much weight you can attribute to their stats. VPIP and PFR only become meaningful after roughly 50 hands, AF after about 200-500 hands depending on how loose the player is. W$SD and W$WSF will need several thousand hands to be truly accurate so should be used carefully, WtSD will become accurate a lot faster though. Aggression Factor by Street (FlopAF/TurnAF/RiverAF)
These three stats displayed can give you a good idea of what type of player you’re up against.
A player with high flop AF will be cbetting frequently, use this with Cbet% to determine how likely a player is to cbet.
A player with low flop AF and unusually high turn AF (>2) is most likely a floater. They tend to have a fairly high Call PFR % as well as a high Call Cbet %.
A player with high flop and turn AFs will often be firing a double barrel, if they have a high W$WSF and Cbet% with a fairly low WtSD you can be fairly confident they will fire 2nd barrels.
A player with low flop and turn AF and high river AF is usually a fish; they like to see all the cards before betting and are often calling stations as well.
A player with normal flop and turn AFs but with a low river AF (<2) is often turning their hand into a bluff catcher on the river, they prefer to check/call then bet/fold. Conversely a player with a high river AF will be bet/folding more of their marginal hands and you can raise their bets as a bluff more often. Attempt to Steal Blinds % (AttSB)
Another exceptionally useful stat, it can determine whether or not a player is aware position dynamics. It needs to be considered in context with PFR. If their AttSB is significantly higher then their PFR then they’re most likely aware of the power of positional and you can give more respect to their UTG opens and less to their cut off/button opens. A high Fold SB/BB to steal % is another solid sign that they know what they’re doing.
A player with a high AttSB who is opening from the cutoff and particularly the button is an excellent candidate to consider 3beting light. If they also have a high Cbet% then you could consider calling light with the intention of c/ring (or just raising if your on the button) their cbet. Pocket pairs go down in value against these types of players since you can’t expect to get paid off often enough even if you hit gin.
<20% - These players aren’t taking advantage of their position and are giving up a lot of value. We would like this type of player in LP when we’re in the blinds.
20% – 27% - these players aren’t stealing too light and we can give their cutoff/button opens a tighter range. We’re not losing much against this type of player.
27% – 35% - these players are stealing fairly lightly, we should assign a wider range to their late position raises and 3bet them more often as they’re likely to be getting out of line.
>35% – these players are stealing pretty light and are often raising many of trashy hands. We can 3bet more hands for value and we should be 3betting them frequently as their opening range can’t take too much pressure. Continuation Bet Percentage
Tells us how often a player bets or raises the flop after raising the pot pre-flop. At micro levels players should be cbetting pretty often, however at small-mid stakes this would be burning money. Pay attention to PFR and AttSB, a player with a very low PFR most likely has a big hand when he cbets and should be given credit. A player with a high PFR and high Cbet% will have a much wider range when they cbet.
>85%, this player is continuation betting almost always and is unlikely to be paying attention to the number of opponents or the flop texture. You can raise and call them lighter. These are also prime candidates for floating unless of course they are prone to firing multiple barrels. If they do fire 2nd barrels often then you can be more inclined to slowplay monsters, or call down lightly against them trying to induce bluffs.
65% - 85%, this player is probably playing closer to optimally at small-mid stakes and is going to be much harder to exploit.
<65%, this player doesn’t cbet often enough. We can see more flops with them and take the pot away when they check. However, they should be given more credit when they do cbet, as with a low frequency, once they start betting, it’s generally because they’ve connected reasonably well with the flop. Bet River %
How frequently a player bets the river. It’s important to be aware of what type of villain you are facing. A lot of weaker players like to check call cbets and then bet the river after the turn checks through. They often assume you would have bet a made hand on the turn and believe they can win the pot by betting. Maniacs are probably bluffing the river too frequently.
>30%, this player is likely betting a lot of weak or marginal hands on the river. Adjust your range and be prepared to call these players down lighter.
20% - 30%, this player is betting the river quite frequently, they may bet-fold more often then check-call.
<20%, this player should be given a lot more respect on the river. Fold SB/BB to steal %
This statistic
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